Sunday, June 19, 2011

Yuen Long Eats (2) - 大同老餅家


去元朗要買老婆餅,就好像蒸魚要落豉油一般,是理所當然的.常常聽說要買大榮華餅家的最好,但我卻對比較少人談及的大同老餅家有興趣,畢竟名字和一位我很喜歡(也常常被人說得長得像)的artist很像,哈哈.

位於阜財街的餅家招牌夠大很容易找,遠遠已經看到在裡面買老婆餅的人.外面也放著一個盆盆新鮮出爐的麵包,賣相很吸引.

店裡面也當然有傳統的賀禮餅和各種口味的老婆餅.敵不過飄飄餅香的我,雖然那一刻不餓也買了一個原味老婆餅,大同菠蘿飽和雞尾飽,拿回家吃.

雞尾飽飽身頗薄,味道一般,椰絲餡太甜,整體來說很一般,像是街坊麵包店的無心機出品.

大同菠蘿飽是放了菠蘿粒的菠蘿飽,裡面也有一層麻薯包住菠蘿肉.其實菠蘿皮和酸咪咪的菠蘿肉味道根本不夾,只是罐頭貨的後者也不見有甚麼特別. 菠蘿皮也是極硬,甚至硬得杉口,個人不喜歡.這個大同飽,很有阿茂整餅的感覺-專心做好菠蘿飽,不就好了?
老婆餅更是和別家的很不同:酥皮不是層層酥香的flaky那種皮,而是一層過有店像菠蘿飽頂的皮;糖冬瓜餡比別的淡很多,其實不應該說是淡因為是一點味道也沒有,像是在吃煮溶了的橡膠,很恐怖.

大同餅家,做的可真的和別家的大大不同.可惜,不是'正面'地比別家做得好,而是很明顯的差...又或者,我應該說,真的不是我杯茶...下次再來,還是買大榮華比較穩陣...

大同老餅家
元朗阜財街57號地下
G/F, No. 57, Fo Choi Street, Yuen Long

Yuen Long Eats (1) - 勝利牛丸


One of the advantage of being from a Chewchowese family is that we have a stable supply of lo-sui goose (not duck, mind you), fishballs and beefballs freshly prepared in Chew Chow, later smuggled to Hong Kong. We do have some outstanding lo-suis and Chewchowese restaurants in town but none can compare to the 100% authentic stuff from mainland. There's no way back once you have tasted the best of one kind, no matter how outstanding the second bests are - that's how I feel when I visited Hung's Delicacies for the lo-sui. It was good but certainly not the best I could get.

We were at Yuen Long one weekend decided to eat around before leaving for another place. And our first stop? Victory Beef Ball.

The place wasnt too crowded as we went before lunch hour, at around twelve. But more people kept coming and the noise index shot up.

We had to save up some space and so only ordered two bowls of noodles.

Beef ball w/ noodles - the beef balls were really spongy and nicely flavoured, not too oilish however. There were spores in the meat, and it basically bounced back as you bit into it. It was good but they could not be compared with those I tried in Chewchow back then, which might contain more fat and oil but was much, much more spongy and meaty. This was okay as in HK's standard.
The noodles were 油麵 instead of fine noodles. They were pretty chewy but were not very oilish on their own. I like how the noodles were thicker and could pick up more flavours from the soup.

半筋半腩麵- the soup was more intensely flavoured than the broth used in beefball noodles. Whilst the beef flank were just mediore in both texture and flavour - they were not tender enough, and i did not like the detectable taste of '5 spices'(五香) in the meat, which was too strong - the loin with a soapy texture and a more 'distilled' flavour was much better. They were not exactly chewy but sorta stuck onto your teeth as you bit into each segment of them, and they were good, not as salty and heavily spiced as the beef flank. I should have ordered noodles with just the loin instead of having them 50/50.


In short - slightly disappointing it was, especially the beef balls. But to be honest they were already much better than the bland and textureless 'balls' a lot of noodles shops serve. However I might not consider visiting it again as there were better restaurants or noodles out there around Yuen Long.


勝利牛丸
元朗康景街1 號裕景坊20號祥發大廈地下
G/F, 1 Hong King Street, Yuen Long

指路明燈 - 大光燈麵食巷仔雲吞麵

本來還不明白為甚麼這麵店會有這奇怪的名字,後來再晚上沿著老龍巷街探路過來,一望到大光燈異常搶眼的招牌,也就明白了.

在黑暗的街道中,這店就好像一盞明燈,為飢腸轆轆的一眾餓鬼指引著正確的方向.


我其實不餓,來到這裡主要是因為身邊有隻餓鬼要食飽點才能再上路,我在那裡主要是陪坐.

枱上有任食的酸蘿蔔酸青瓜,這在香港只有幾間雲吞麵點才有提供.嘗了少許,酸咪咪的非常開胃.

眼見食鬼的一碗細蓉很漂亮,也就嘗了一個.湯底味濃郁,應該是落了很足夠的大地魚來煲,所以味道鮮甜,和別家的很不同.雲吞也是小顆小顆的,裡面有彈牙的蝦肉和豬肉,鮮甜味美.

也有九元一碟的脆炸魚皮,薄身脆卜卜的好像薯片般,點了鮮甜的湯來吃又是另一番風味-個人比較喜歡'齌食',貪其香口.


食飽飽,真的可以上路了,我們就離開光明的街角,往黑暗的街尾前進...


大光燈麵食巷仔雲吞麵
紅磡漆咸道北248號
247 Chatham Road North, Hung Hom


PS.上文有關鬼怪之用語純屬貪玩得意,百無禁忌,有怪莫怪.

一頭一尾,一生一死 - 生記(老坑)茶餐廳

生與死之間,有時真的是一線之差.今年比較空閒,也比去年心情輕鬆,適逢在週末的父親節本應可以好好慶祝一番,卻在早前收到有親人去世,並在同一個週末辦葬禮的消息.

所以,出席另一位父親的葬禮,就成了今年父親節的重點節目.

其實這樣也好,可以逼自己去思考生與死的問題,這個一直逃避的問題.透過葬禮去近距離體驗死亡,也許能令參與者更明白要珍惜眼前人.

如果不是在地圖找尋要去的殯儀館位置,還真不會發現香港有老龍坑街這條名字奇怪的街道.再search一下原來早前一眾食友去過的生記茶餐廳和大光燈雲吞就在附近.既然要在大酒店待上好一會,有幾餐要在附近解決,那就把握機會去嘗一嘗這兩間食店.

說 老龍坑街難找不錯,因為要從外街轉入一條街才是;但說它易認也對,因為整條街基本上都是和殯儀有關的店,招牌搶眼非常.賣花牌的,賣棺材的,賣骨灰瓶的, 滿街都是.這令我想起從前地理讀過有關industrial agglomeration的知識;既然老龍坑街的街尾就是三間殯儀館,相關行業聚集在這裡,合理不過.不過可是苦了住在附近的街坊,天天碰見的都是靈 車,誰誰千古的花牌…就算在白天,這條街也瀰漫著一種灰沉沉的’死’氣,更不要談入夜後了.這條街,光是經過就能令人直打寒.

也許是要與籠罩街尾的’死’氣對抗,這條街道除了有個很霸氣的名字外,街頭的食肆也以生滾,煲仔,快炒為主,夜晚廚房都火光連連,和靜謐的街尾成強烈對比.這次來的,正正叫生記茶餐廳,招牌的是生滾羔蟹粥 .一頭一尾,一生一死-這條老龍坑街,佈局可真有意思.

這街坊小店白天時是普通的茶餐廳,晚上六時起就轉賣海鮮.我們六時多去到,小小的店已經半滿,到七時,已經全店爆滿,遲來的就算訂了枱也要等.我看著有蟲爬來爬去的’地茂’格局,一出去就滿街殯儀的地點,和滿堂賓客的熱鬧情況,毫不相配,心中也不禁疑惑起來:這個蟹粥,真的那麼好吃?

菜牌上的十成十都是海鮮菜,我們點了一窩生滾羔蟹粥,蠔仔春卷,炸軟殼蟹,即炒豉油皇炒麵和菜心一碟,很豐富.

等了又等,別的客人都有東西吃,但我們的遲遲還未到,看著聞著別人香噴噴的生滾粥,也越來越肚餓.


終於來的是蠔仔春卷,剛炸起的非常熨口,皮非常之薄和脆,裡面的蠔仔多得快要掉出來.

平時吃海鮮都要點些醬汁來避免吃到腥味,但店主就正正叫我們千萬不要點汁,說會蓋過鮮味.一嘗,果然非常鮮甜,點甚麼都是多餘,蠔仔本身鮮甜的汁就是最好的調味品.炸得香而不膩,吃多兩件也不會漏.

然後的就是期待已久的生滾羔蟹粥, 用有點崩嘴的煲上.還在冒泡的粥底偏稀,帶淡淡金黃色,裡面藏著一整隻羔蟹.

粥味道已經鮮甜,但蟹身更是充滿蟹羔,輕輕一啜就啖啖鮮味,令人顧不得儀態放 任地大啖大啖吃起來.

有些羔多得掉出來和粥底混合,淡粥和濃郁的羔味道剛好調和,好吃得令我這平時不吃粥的人也把一碗清掉,不放過任何一啖鮮甜的蟹羔.
吃著粥,炸軟殼蟹也到了.這軟殼蟹比豬粥的羔蟹小一點點,味道是ok的,但因為炸漿很薄,也炸得剛剛好不會油膩,所以也好吃.但比起超水準的蠔仔春卷,這個就沒那麼令人驚喜!
豉油皇炒麵更是驚喜,平日在粥舖吃到的不是預先炒定就是咸到要狂喝水,這個不但是熱辣辣即叫即炒,味道也是鮮而不咸,每條麵條平均沾到豉油的鮮味,材料不豐富但美味非常.這個炒麵,不叫不可!
最後來的居然是最簡單的菜心,也沒甚麼好評論的了吧.在這裡吃了豐富的一餐海鮮餐,叫碟菜來平衡一下是必須的.

吃完熱騰騰的生滾粥,門外等位的人也越來越多,也就識相的讓座;埋單,也只是二百多元,即八十多元一位就能夠吃到如此鮮味的海鮮粥,超值得令人詫異.

雖然身為港島人,來紅磡吃飯的機會少之又少,會來陰氣重重的這邊原因多數會是...但我已然會再想來多一次,吃這個別處很難再找到的鮮甜羔蟹粥.

吃完,我們也沿著老龍坑街從街頭走回街尾,從生走到死...

生記茶餐廳
紅磡老龍坑街13號地下
G/F, 13 Lo Lung Hang Street, Hung Hom
06:00 - 18:00 提供普通茶餐廳食品
18:00 - 22:00 提供蟹粥等海鮮食品

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Do not come on your Bad Hair Day. - 798 Unit & co.

We have been to the newly opened Just A Restaurant by 798 unit & co a number of times and find the food impressive. Therefore we immediately bought the $400-worth cash coupon for eating at 798 - it was nice having good food at half the price with the coupon. The only downside of the coupon was that we had to book the table in advance. Not a big issue as we planned to eat there after watching a movie at the Times Square, Causeway Bay.

798 unit & co is on th3 13th floor on Times Square, a part of the mall I dont usually go to - there are way too many good restaurants out there along the streets. After a short journey up the escalators we got to the place - a dimly lit relaxing bistro it appeared to be.
We were not greeted very warmly by the staff, and the place was still setting up as we were brought to our table. The staff were copying the special dinner sets for two and etc. onto the large chalkboard, and sadly one made a very serious and laughable mistake without noticing.
The menu was printed on an A3 paper, on both sides. Not a great variety of dishes are available, but we were pleased and satisfied with what we were offered to choose from.

A small plate of sliced french baguette and butter was also brought to us. I thought it was icy cold and stone-hard but it turned out to be warmed and crispy. Did not like the butter however as it tasted too bland - we got not to be too health-conscious when it comes to butter, I think. You either eat the full-fat butter, or you dont eat it. NEVER substitute it with a low-fat variety as that always suck.

My dad loved the French Onion Soup he got at J.A.R, complimenting the richness of the flavour and the caramelized onion every time he ordered one. This one he got at 798 looked 99% the same but was much blander in taste. Matter of fact it tasted diluted and there was little sweetness of onion in it.Has the chef forgotten his salt and pepper? I'd rather throw it away than drinking it, to be completely honest.

Ma's wild mushroom soup with truffle oil was awful as the onion soup. Despite its deceiving brownish look it tasted like water. There were lumps of mushroom floating in the soup but they looked more like floating rubbish rather than part of the soup. There was flavour in them but they were locked in, instead of released into the soup. The truffle oil had not injected any flavour nor aroma into the soup, only giving it an oily appearance. I have no idea what the white thing on top was - it could be a lump of cream or truffle cream but I am not sure, as it tasted as bland as the soup was. It was really bad - the WORST mushroom soup i have ever tasted in my life. Even a random cream of mushroom soup from a local Chaa Chen Teng could K.O. this.

I did not have soup by myself and we ordered a baby spinach & toasted corn salad. It was okay - more than an okay in fact. The baby spinach leaves were fresh and crisp, and the corn cob were sweet and really juicy. The little halves of tomatoes were so-so, not extraordinarily juicy, but I really like the sour and refreshing salad dressing. It tasted like something between vinegar and the Italian dressing. My dad said it was too sour for him but i thought it was okay - the tartness of it balanced against the greasiness in the bacon bits. In general,it was a very simple but good salad.

-->There was a long, sleepy wait before the main courses were ready. A quick side note on the delivery of dishes first - I could clearly see how the food were brought from the kitchen to the delivery island from where i sat. As we were waiting I saw three dishes, suspected to be what we ordered, being brought out by someone in white from the kitchen. I thought a server would quickly bring them to our table, serving them fresh and hot from the stove. They didn't, and something really strange happened. The restaurant was not very busy by then and there were servers walking around in the arena, and I was quite sure they must have seen the unserved dish on the island. I do not know if there is a rule of wait-for-5-minutes-before-you-serve-the-dishes here at 798, but they just ignored the covered dishes and walked away. Whether there was really a rule or whether there had been an attitude issue, I do not know. All i know is that if the dishes were not brought to the table once they were ready, they would possibly go lukewarm, even stale, and I do care about the temperature of the food I have, a lot.
Anyhow, both me and my food did not mind waiting as long as the taste and temperature were still acceptable.

Rosemary roasted rack of lamb - with spring vegetables, pancetta & mint bearnaise. We wanted it medium but it returned medium-rare - even better as i prefer pink meat over well-cooked ones. The lamb rack were excellent. We loved what we got at JAR and that was why we ordered this at 798. This was even better than that we had! The meat was extremely tender yet so full and rich of the distinctive taste of lamb. It was definitely NOT overcooked (it couldnt be, obviously!) and an awful lot of juice was still locked in it. The exterior of the racks had the distinctive taste and crispiness from a roast, and i love the bits of crumbs that gave it a thin crunchy twist. It was perfect and I ended up holding the thin bone lovingly with my hands!
It tasted even better with the mint jelly and mustard, two must-haves. The mint bearnaise sauce, a close relative to the Hollandaise sauce which i love, was great. It tasted just right of egg yolk, butter, while the mint in it made it a less greasy sauce to dip the meat in. Even the vegetables with pancetta, taking up the juice from the lamb, was delicious. All in all while i expected to have just an lukewarm, so-so lamb rack, this was much better than what I had in mind. I would come again just for the lamb rack - it was really THAT delicious!

Chargrilled U.S. thick-cut pork loin chop - with roasted pineapple, apple-potato salad & honey mustard. Dad's pick it was. I usually avoid ordering pork chops in Western restaurants, especially not the expensive ones, as many use frozen pork chops and they always return so dry, tough and coarse that you could not even eat it. This was a thick-cut and much to my surprise, it remained tender after being grilled and bore the distinctive marks of charcoal. The meat was tender, the fibre were fine, and you could find juice in it; it tasted naturally of the sweetness of pork too, unlike the ambiguous, unidentifiable piece of meat people call 'pork chops' you get elsewhere. The honey mustard was a perfect match of the chop, and i enjoyed the roasted pineapple more than the so-so apple salad. They used too much mayo in it, i think. But all in all - a hidden gem the dish was!

Slow-cooked oxtail risotto. My pick this time as i adore risotto - I love how the rice grains have picked up the rich flavour of the stock. They were way too tender to be called authentically Italian, and more cheeses and cream should be used had it been prepared in other restaurants, but we all LOVED this more-creative-risotto. Bay leaves and sun-dried tomatoes mixed with the rice varied the texture while flakes of soft, aromatic, shredded ox-tail meat were truly delicious. The rice was great and thanks to the reduced amount of cheese and cream, we could finish it without wasting any of it!

The food was great - except the soup perhaps - while the service was really bad. The managers pulled a long face whenever she came by, and was not very polite when i tried to redeem the coupon, asked for mustard and mint, or just for general inquiry. I think i heard no 'thank you' throughout the night from anyone from the crew too. I do not mean everyone have to be smiling with their teeth visible no matter how tired they might be but theres something so basic and simple that one working in the F&B industry should never forget and miss. I have been there, working in the industry as a summerjob, and i know how shitty it feels sometimes. But even I would not serve my customers with a long face no matter how miserable my life was, and I dem
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